Repairing the Apple 60W Power Adapter

After yesterday's outing to Kidzcity, I returned home to find that the power to the MacBook was failing; moving the (low voltage) power cable next to the transformer affected power delivery. Looking closer, I noticed the cable showed short circuiting signs (i.e. the cable had fused):

As such, a straightforward repair job; cut the damaged wire and reattach to the transformer. Unfortunately, of course, the Power Adapter isn't meant to be repaired - there is no way to open the unit without damaging it (thanks to the "Leader for Success" blog for making this painfully clear).

So ... time for some controlled violence; using a sharp screwdriver, I "punch-opened" the plastic casing:

And so, after attacking three of the four sides (not the side opposite the cable), the unit could be opened (note that the insides are also glued (not too tightly) to the outside plastic, the inside is surrounded by copper plating and the outside plastic parts are lined with aluminium for heat dissipation):

Eureka ! After removing the copper plating from the insides (the inner plate is soldered to the circuit board), I had access to the circuit board (note the paste to connect the hot components to the copper plate heatsink):

I then cut the low voltage power cable just past the point where it had fused and was surprised to see that it's a coax cable. I then "unsoldered" (for want of a better word) the 2 wires from the circuit board and fiddled them out of the rubber plug:

After all this destruction, it was time to put things back together again. The intact cable was fiddled through the rubber plug and I added a knot so any tension on the cable would not affect the solder points. 

I stripped about 3,5 cm of the outer shielding and formed a wire, covered it with insulating tape and soldered it to the circuit board. The inner core was then soldered to the circuit board and finally I soldered back the (first and inner) copper plate. (See the notes on the second photo up). The other two copper plates were taped in place (as they were originally).

Then it was time to see if it would all fit in the plastic casing - nicely. I removed the burrs from the plastic where the screwdriver had damaged it and - lo and behold - it all fit !

Before closing it up for good, I tested the unit and was pleased to see it worked .. time to put it back together for good. As the edges of the two sides of the plastic case had been damaged, glue wouldn't be enough to hold it together so tape was needed:

.. You have to look really hard to see that it's been opened ..

Paul finally buys a new bike (shock horror)

Here's an overdue posting - I've finally invested in a new bicycle - admittedly this was more than a month ago .. but time as a parent is fluid and it too easily slips through your fingers. (And now, I'm sat in Kidzcity in Utrecht, an indoor play ground; the kids are burning up energy as I just sit ..).

Back to the bike: everyone in my direct neighbourhood knows I've been going on about a new bike for ages (2+ years). As I use my bike a lot - for my daily (no exceptions) commute to work (25 km round trip) - they tend to see a fair bit of wear and tear.

The general pattern in my adult cycling life so far has been:

1. I've invested in a sporty (ATB, Racer, Hybrid) bike with gears;
2. After about 1,5 years use the gears are knackered;
3. I invest in new (better) gears;
4. After about 1,5 years the gears are knackered;
5. I decide not to invest in gears - but start stripping the bike down and invest in a single chainwheel, sprocket and new chain;
6. After about 1,5 years I return to bullet 5.
7. (A new bike arrives when the old bike is really starting to require too much maintenance - like when a wheel rim detaches).

All in all, for my purposes 1 gear suffices; yes it's annoying when there's a lot of wind:

• The gearing is too high (I struggle against the wind);
• The gearing is too low (my legs go around like crazy).
• (My gear ratio is always around the 2,7 mark).

But .. it's generally a very simple, enjoyable, light-weight cycling experience.

Anyhoo .. I digress. My set of requirements for my bike:

1. It has to be the epitome of cycling:
1. Efficient (energy in = energy out);
2. Effective (it does what it's meant for - and no more);
3. Cost effective (why is it that the more minimal the bike, the higher the price ?);
4. Reliable (it has to survive without being serviced every 50 km);
2. The above requirements can be translated to (items aren't ordered):
• Light-weight;
• 1 gear (not a fixie);
• Cruise speed just over 30 km/h;
• Touring / city geometry (fairly comfortable);
• Mudguards;
• Reliable;
• Costs under EUR 1000.

Apart from the 1 gear requirement - this will fit quite a lot of bikes. For instance, my colleagues at work asked why I didn't invest in a standard Dutch "stadsfiets" (e.g. the Batavus Commuter): they're not too expensive, reliable, have gears and are very suited to commuting. 

At this point I should make it clear that I've forgotten one of my requirements:

1. It should be special.

So .. I looked into (albeit from the internet) bikes with a Gates Carbon Drive; nice - but very quickly very expensive. (I must say that at the beginning of 2009 I attempted to to buy a Trek Soho in England; the pound was extremely low and the English price hadn't been corrected yet so I would have saved myself roughly EUR 350 over the Dutch price (then). Unfortunately it didn't work out. Trek have a complete stranglehold on how bikes are supplied and the internet shop wasn't allowed to supply. Even trying to have it delivered to an English address failed; the bike had to be picked up. Since this event, I've gone off Trek   - in hindsight I should've contacted the EU over consumer protection - cause it all reeked of a manufacturer interfering with the rights to fair supply).

Once again, I digress. I kind of knew what I wanted, but I couldn't find a manufacturer (should I make a bike myself ?- if only I had more time).

And then - on 7 January (2011) I noticed that Wiggle was selling the 2010 Charge Plug Grinder  for next to nothing (well ... GBP 270 less than the 2011 model). And as the 2010 model doesn't seem to be inferior to the 2011 model (looking at the specs), I decided to go for it - the price was what drew me over the line in the end. 

And so far, I'm very pleased I've done it (see the following post). 

And funnily enough the Wiggle price of the 2010 Charge Plug Grinder has gone up again, by GBP 220 !! Now that puts a smile on my face.